At the River Palm Terrace in Edgewater
by Henri LeSeure

The River Palm Terrace in Edgewater is as it has always been: a no-nonsense, no apologies steakhouse. You’re seated in a utilitarian dining room with hardwood floors, and spy a knife on the table in front of you that looks more like a saw. Not that you’d need to saw through any of their meat here, but the message is clear: there’s no quiche on this menu.

Arriving 10 minutes late for a 7:00 p.m. reservation, we were nonetheless almost immediately seated. That being said, it’s still almost always best to dine earlier here rather than later, when things get really hectic. Service was prompt and friendly, and drinks were quickly delivered. In fact, throughout the entire evening, our waiter periodically scanned his assigned tables like a field marshal, always aware of where he was needed and when.

For starters, grilled portobello mushrooms were meaty and tasty, and the French onion soup was not too salty, as can sometimes be a problem. Chopped salad was more than ample for two, and not overly dressed. Although the River Palm is also renowned for its seafood, it was steak we had come for. It is always a pleasure when a steak is prepared exactly as ordered, and the prime 14 oz. New York shell steak ($25.95) that we requested “medium” arrived perfectly pink in the center. Likewise with the prime butcher-cut filet mignon ($27.95), which was a perfect medium-rare, slightly charred on the outside. The filet was like butter, almost melting in your mouth with each bite. Creamed spinach proved a delicious accompaniment. Thin shaved fried onions were light and crispy, though the French fries which are usually exemplary were a bit overdone and hard. For closers, the River Palm’s never-miss key lime pie came with fresh whipped cream, and my companion marveled at the delicious crust. Tiramisu was among the most delectable ever sampled anywhere.

In the philosophy of “If you’ve got a good thing going, keep doing it”, the River Palm Terrace now has additional locations in Fair Lawn and Mahwah, although we haven’t tried the others. But rest assured that under the management of co-owner John Campbell, the River Palm in Edgewater continues to be a safe bet and a reliable choice.

Rating: ****
Reviewed 2/4/00

Ratings Key:
* Poor
** Fair
*** Good
**** Excellent